Things to See and Do in Mallorca
1 ... CASTELL D'ALAROA castle has stood on this site since Moorish times and it was so impregnable that the Arab commander was able to hold out for 2 years after the Christian conquest. Later in 1285, 2 heroes of Mallorcan independence, Cabrit and Brassa, defended the castle against Alfonso III of Aragon and were burned alive on a spit when he finally took it by storm.
The climb up here is one of Mallorca’s most popular walks, especially on Sundays. From the town of Alaró it is a stiff climb of about 2 hours, following the signs from the PM210 to Orient; you can also leave from Orient following a small path opposite L’Hermitage Hotel, again taking around 2 hours in total.
The paths converge above Es Verger restaurant [you can even bring a car this far if you don’t mind the potholes and the hairpin bends], where you can fill up with roast lamb before the final steep climb. At last you reach the castle, 800m above sea level. Look back at the view, stretching across the entire plain to Palma and out to sea. A few minutes further brings you to the summit, with a small chapel and sanctuary, and a restaurant and bar. If you are inspired by the views, you can stay the night here in one of the simple rooms and experience the true tranquillity of the place.
2 ... CASTELL DE BELLVER - PALMA DE MALLORCALooking up at this castle, so perfectly maintained, it is hard to believe that it was been standing for almost 700 years. Begun by Jaume II in 1300 and built by Pete Salvá, the architect of the Almudaina Palace, it is unique among Spanish castles in being entirely round.
Three large towers surround a central courtyard, connected by an arch to a free-standing keep. The courtyard is on 2 levels, the ground floor with semicircular arches and a flat roof, the upper level with Gothic arches and rib vaulting. For the full effect, walk around the moat then climb onto the roof and look down into the courtyard to compare the contrasting styles. While you are there, look out over the city and the bay for one of the best views in Palma [bellver means “lovely view” in Catalan].
For many centuries, the castle was used as a prison; Jaume III’s widow and sons were imprisoned here for most of their lives.
These days, it contains Palma’s museum of municipal history which traces the development of the city through its artefacts, with pottery from Talaiotic, Roman, Arab and Spanish periods.
3 ... LA SEU - PALMA CATHEDRALAnything you see inside Palma cathedral may come as a disappointment once you have stood on the seafront and gazed up at its golden sandstone exterior, climbing above the old city walls. La Seu stands out from its surroundings, a demonstration of the might of Mallorca’s Christian conquerors to all who arrived by sea.
Tradition has it that a storm arose as Jaume I was sailing towards Mallorca. He vowed that if he landed safely he would build a great church in honour of the Virgin. On New Year’s Day 1230, a day after the fall of Palma, the foundation stone was symbolically laid on the site of the city’s main mosque. Work continued for 400 years - and had to resume in 1851 when an earthquake destroyed the west front. More touches were added in the 20th century by the Catalan architect Antoni Gaudi.
You enter through a side door, passing a small museum. Head for the west portl and gaze down the long nave. Light pours through the rose window [one of the world’s largest] 12m across and studded with 1,236 pieces of stained glass. The columns are ringed with wrought-iron candelabra by Gaudi; his most controversial additional is the unfinished Crown of Thorns, fashioned from cardboard and cork and suspended from the altar.
Be sure to walk around to the south front, facing the sea, to look at the Portal del Mirador, a 14th century door by Guillern Sagrera featuring scenes from the Last Supper.
In the oldest part of the cathedral, hidden behind the altar, is the Trinity Chapel, containing the tombs of Jaume II and III [not open to visitors].
4 ... POBLE ESPANYOL“Miniature Spain” is located a short way west of Palma’s old town. It was built in the 1960s on the orders of the Spanish dictator General Franco. Here you can see 20 or so mini versions of outstanding examples of Spanish architecture. The include Granada’s Alhambra Palace, El Greco’s house in Toledo and Barcelona’s Palau de la Generalitat.
There is also a craft workshop, restaurant, bar and a souvenir shop.
Opposite the entrance to Poble Espanyol, stands the monumental Palau de Congressos. The congress centre features, among other things, the Roman Theatre and the Imperial Hall.
5 ... LA GRANJAThis country house [finca] lies in a wooded valley, near Esporles. From the 13th to the 15th centuries it belonged to an order of Cistercian monks, and after this to the Fortuny family. The estate has survived almost unchanged since the 18th century and is now a museum of folklore, full of antique furniture, ceramics and other artefacts. Hams hang in the antique kitchen, peacocks stroll around the beautiful garden and the local restaurant serves delicious Mallorcan cuisine. In the mornings it is quieter and you can still see displays of folk dancing and local crafts.
Dye-house : This formal part of the domestic quarters, most of which were situated in basements and cellars.
Courtyard : The house is arranged around a courtyard. don’t miss the classic car that is parked in an open garage. The courtyard has a wide entrance gate to the east.
Folk Dancing : The twice-weekly folklore dances at La Granja come from ancient tradition. Young female workers would lead young men in an improvised dance celebrating a good oil and cereal harvest.
Salon : The formal rooms are situated on the north side. Next to the salon are the games room and a small theatre. From here, French windows open onto the garden.
6 ... TRAIN FROM PALMA TO PORT DE SOLLERThe most enjoyable way to travel from Palma to Soller is aboard the “Red Arrow”, an electric, narrow-gauge railway line, which opened in 1912. After passing through farmland, the 27km route winds its way through the steep peaks and valleys of the Serra de Tramuntana. The line is justifiably regarded as one of the most attractive in Europe, and the narrow-gauge rolling stock, carriages and clanking engine only add to the experience.
The trip takes about an hour and you reach Soller. From here a vintage tram running through the busy town centre take you to Port de Soller [a further 15 minutes]. Here, the tram runs along the beach and ends at the harbour.
7 ... PARC NATURAL DE S'ALBUFERAThe wetland, south of Port d’Alcudia, occupying the shores of Lake Grande up to C’an Picafort, was once a swamp. Most of it was drained in the 1860s, but a portion remains, which in 1985 became the Parc Natural de S’Albufeira [Arabic for “lagoon”].
The marshes, overgrown with reeds, can be explored on foot, following the marked trails. A major conservation project, this is an excellent place for observing over 200 species of birds including grey and purpose herons, summer osprey and Eleonora’s falcon. The park reception is in Sa Roca where you can obtain a free map and a list of some of the park’s birds that you are likely to see.
8 ... CAVES OF DRAC [COVES DEL DRAC]Some 2km south of Porto Cristo are the Caves of Drac. The “Dragon’s Caves” are one of Mallorca’s treasures. Although the have been known for centuries, they were unexplored until 1896. The feature an attractive array of dripstones, as well as one of the world’s largest underground lakes [Lake Martel], 177m long and 40m wide and over 30m deep.
A ride by boat under the stalactite vault is an unforgettable experience. The 1 hour tour ends with a floodlit, floating violin concert on Lake Martel, named in honour of the French geologist Edouard Martel who first explored these caves.
9 ... LLUCLluc has been a centre of pilgrimage since the 13th century when an Arab shepherd boy discovered a dark wooden statue of the Virgin. The image was put in the local church but three times it returned miraculously to its cave, whereupon the villagers recognised a message from God and built a chapel to house it.
La Moreneta [“the Little Dark One”] is now encrusted with precious stones, and sits in a chapel decorated with the arms of every Mallorcan town. Pilgrims and tourists queue to pay homage, especially on Sundays and at 11am before the daily concerts by El Blauets choir.
The monastery complex includes Els Porxets, the former pilgrims’ quarters with tabling beneath the rooms, and the Way of the Rosary, with touches by Antoni Gaudi. From the hilltop cross you look down over a farmland valley and up into the pine-covered mountains. You can stay at Lluc but it is more like a hotel than a hermitage - the 100 “cells” have en suite bathrooms and there are several restaurants and bars. There is also a museum - among the displays of ceramics, chalices and coins is a collection of paintings by the 20th century Mallorcan astist Josep Coll Bardolet, with scenes from Deia, Valldemossa dn Fornalutx.
10 ... CAP DE FORMENTORThe 20km drive from Port de Pollensa to Mallorca’s most northerly point has scenery as dramatic as anyone could wish for. Cliffs 400m tall jut into the sea, while pine trees seem to grow out of the rocks. The drive is also famously scary - a local legend has it that the parish priest and the local bus driver arrived at the Pearly Gates, and only the driver was admitted to heaven. The reason? He had led far more people to pray.
6km from Port de Pollensa you reach the Mirador des Colomer - scramble up the steps for views over a rocky islet. A path opposite the steps leads to an old watchtower from which you can see the while of the peninsula as well as the bays of Pollensa and Acludia. The road continues through pine woods and past more miradors before tunnelling through En Fumat mountain, where you look down over Mallorca’s most inaccessible beach. Eventually you reach a lighthouse with the inevitable bar and shop and more stunning views all the way to Menorca on a good day.
On the way back, stop at Formentor beach and the Hotel Formentor, which opened in 1929 and has been pampering the rich and famous ever since. The fine sandy beach used to be reserved for the hotel’s guests, but democracy has opened it to the masses.
